Heaters and Thermostats
To meet the temperature requirements of each fish likely to find its way into our aquariums, our tank water would have to range between 65o and 85.F. lt is best to aim for a happy medium, which experience suggests is about 75'F. Do not become a "thermometer worshipper," panicking if the thermometer registers slightly above or below 75"F. Fishes are amazingly adaptable and can withstand a gradual change of temperature provided it doesn’,t cover too great a range. Even a change of five degrees during the night will cause no harm, so do not worry over a thermometer reading- anywhere from 73" to 78".
Pump
To supply air to the air-lifts and stones a pump is required. Connected to the electricity supply, this provides air from either a rocker-arm and coil movement or by means of pistons. The smaller models inco4)orate a rubber diaphragm.
These are necessary to Provide air for your filtration and aeration equipment. ln a typical corner filter, a flow of air pulls water through the filter media . Though the cost will be a consideration when making your choice, get the best You can afford. Many beginners Purchase a small output Pump, sufficient only for their early requirements.
These are necessary to Provide air for your filtration and aeration equipment. ln a typical corner filter, a flow of air pulls water through the filter media . Though the cost will be a consideration when making your choice, get the best You can afford. Many beginners Purchase a small output Pump, sufficient only for their early requirements.
Before long, they find that they need more air and either buy another small motor, or, as is usually the case, a larger model. Buying a more Powerful Pump at the start is both sensible and economical All types of pumps consume very little current and come complete, ready to connect. Some makes of Pump, when stopped, allow the water in the tank to siphon back down the air tubing, which can ruin the Pump mechanism, blow the electric fuses, and cause a mess on the floor! Play safe. Fit a check valve in the air tube between Pump and tank or, better still, place the motor higher than the tank' Some manufacturers design their models to be hung from the rear wall of the aquarium. Follow the maker's recommendations regarding servicing, particularly for oiling. The more expensive "motor" type Pumps include a bottle of special vegetable (non' toxic) oil for this purpose. Vibration pumps ordinarily require little servicing.
Filter
There are also a number of excellent power filters on the market. These utilize a motor to pull or drive water through the filter media which are contained in a box or cylinder outside the tank. Most of these function both Mechanically and biologically, filtering large volumes of water very efficiently. Most have a powerful return flow that aerates very efficiently. Another type of filter fits underneath the aquarium gravel, and the action of breaking down the particulate material into gases (CO2) and soluble nitrates is biological. That is, this type of filter circulates oxygen-rich water through the gravel. The oxygen encourages the growth of beneficial bacteria that break down the organic matter in the tank and thus helps to prevent pollution. This biological action is also present to a lesser extent in the conventional types. Remember, efficient as these filters are in removing debris from the water, they will not remove certain natural acids, oils or detergents. There are filters which can remove particles of colloidal size (substances which, though apparently dissolved, cannot pass though a membranes, such as bacteria, certain types of algae and protozoa). These are the so-called"water polishers," which utilize diatomaceous earth as a filter medium.
Nets & Scrapers
Nets are used for catching and transferring the fish. The easiest way is to employ two, one to chase the fish and the other for the actual netting. For our set-up, nets about r2.5 x 10 cm are just right, larger tend to catch and uproot the plants, smaller and the fishes would be difficult to catch. Don't purchase the round nets, these are made for bowls. If you want to keep your hands dry, make sure the handles are slightly longer than the tank is deep. After use, shake them dry and hang - don't lay them down on a flat surface, this tends to rot the fabric. White nets can be made less. conspicuous by dyeing in strong tea or coffee, but rinse well afterwards. Cleaning the inside of the glass can be achieved by wiping with rolled-up tissue, but long handled scrapers do the job without getting your hands wet. They are simple holders for either a razor blade, piece of hard rubber, plastic, or soft sponge. Do not use anything that will scratch the
glass; no abrasives, cleaners, or powders. Steel wool tends to rust and foul the water, and the bits that break off prove a potential menace to the fish. Plastic tanks scratch easily.
Dip tubes
For removing the odd portions of uneaten food or plant leaves where the use of the siphon isn't warranted, use a dip tube. Our illustrations show the various types. The first is the simple hand siphon. With the thumb firmly over the top end, the tube is placed vertically in the tank over the detritus to be removed. On lifting tire thumb, water will rush in seeking its own level, carrying with it the debris, which sinks and is trapped inside the barrel. The tube is then lifted out, the water returning to the tank. The barrel splits for easy cleaning. Type 2 uses an airlift to extract the dirt and deposit it in the top filter box. Type 3 traps the sediment in the linen bag, the water, returning to the tank during operation; again worked from an air pump..The last cleaner utilizes the same principles, but the water is lifted by means of a rotating impeller worked from batteries situated in the handle. The bag is removed for cleaning.
Planting Sticks
Made from metal or plastic, these are slender sticks having one end notched in a 'v' shape and the other flattened like a spatula. They are used for replacing the odd plant, when the use of one's fingers would disturb others. Sold in pairs, one holds the plant root down (V), while the flat end is used to heap gravel round it.
Feeding rings and trays
To stop food from dispersing all over the tank, floating rings are used, anchored to one corner of the aquarium. They vary from simple round tubes of plastic to elaborate feeders incorporating trays to trap the sinking particles. It is useful to sink a small, shallow container (those used for potted meats are ideal) in the gravel below any feeder; food sinking to the bottom of the tank thus stays in one place and the substratum does not become foul. Certain live foods , such as Tubifex worm, are used, and again, to stop these tiny creatures from bedding do in the gravel, a feeder is employed. This consists of a perforated box fastened to the glass at the water surface or floating free. A small mass of worms is placed inside it and are taken eagerly by the fish as the worms wriggle through the holes. An up-to-date version employs an air-lift to keep the worms constantly bathed with water.
Air hose
This is narrow-diameter piping connected to the air pump and supplying air to the various aerators, filters, and ornaments. It is made in either rubber, clear or coloured plastic. Rubber tends to rot after prolonged immersion; for the sake of tidiness choose the clear plastic; its fault is that it goes stiff when cold, so immerse it in warm water before use.
Connectors
These divert the one lead-in from the pump into the multiple air lines. Made from metal or plastic, they are either 'two-way' T-pieces allowing for two extra lines or 'four-way' for three connexions. More sophisticated versions are the gang valves; these combine both connector and control of air flow. Attachments that fix on to the aquarium frame are also available
Clamps
These are metal or plastic screws that fasten over the air hose and by clamping on the pipe restrict the flow of air to the appliances. Change their position on the air hose from time to time; if left in one place they will damage the tubing. Piping is so cheap that it pays to replace any rubber that has rotted or plastic that has become too hard and brittle. Surplus Air. lf only one or two appliances are connected to a pump they do not use all its potential, and severe restriction on the air flow by excessive clamping can cause a back pressure that will damage the pump by stretching the diaphragm. A cheap 'bleeder' valve can be made by letting a spare air line connexion hang free at the rear of the aquarium. Controlled by a clamp, this valve will allow the air surplus to requirements to pass into the atmosphere.
Filter brushes
These sets of thin, flexible brushes, made from nylon and wire, are useful for cleaning out air-lifts and the awkward parts of the various filters and also for unclogging a blocked air-lift on the sub-gravel type of filter.
Aquarium separators
These are sheets of pierced plastic that slide down two channels fixed to the sides of the tank and divide the aquarium into two compartments with an easy exchange of water. Though generally not for the one-tank set-up, they are useful when breeding to provide a separate portion for both parent and baby fish.
Artificial plants
The plastic plant is now firmly established despite much opposition from those who dislike their artificialitv. Though initially more expensive, they work out much cheaper in the long run. Obtainable in many beautiful shapes and colours, they are easy to work with, and being plastic do not attract snails. If disease strikes the tank they can be quickly sterilized. Only use artificial plants that are guaranteed safe for prolonged immersion in the aquarium.
Rocks
Not all rocks collected from the wild are suitable for your tank. Some, rich in lime and chalk, tend to make the water hard, a pity, because the calcareous rocks such as limestone and dolomite are found in many pleasing colours. As most underwater rocks eventually become covered -in a gal growths, choose pieces of attractive shape. Suitability for use can be ascertained by immersing the rocks in water containing a small amount of live Daphnia (obtainable from your dealer). If the Daphnia survive over a week, then the rock is usually safe. To find out if rock is calcareous, pour a drop of hydrochloric acid on to the surface. A calcareous rock will foam as the acid affects its surface. If you wish to fasten rocks together, use dental cement. Scrub all rocks well before immersion; and if possible soak for at least a week. If in doubt - leave the
rock out!
Ornaments
Various ceramic ornaments are available for use in the tank. It is not the purpose of this guide to discuss their merits or failings. Whether you include pottery divers, turning water wheels, or treasure chests is purelv a personal choice - it is your own living picture, decorate it to suit your tastes not the current fashion. Be sure, though, that none of your ornaments have spaces large enough to conceal dead or dying fish, causing pollution.
Aquarium Light
Ever since the pronouncement in the Book of Genesis, "Let there be light!" fishkeepers have been hotly debating what sort of light to use. lf your original purchase was a package deal, it probably included a reflector to house the lights. Reflectors manufactured today are well-made, rugged, and safe, and add a professional finish to one's set-up. In their natural environment, fishes receive light from above, so do not experiment by lighting your tank from the sides or below.
Gravel
is a rock that is of a specific particle size range. As soil is to your garden, so gravel is to your aquarium. A good thick layer is needed to cover the floor of the tank, notonly for decorative purposes but also to provide a rooting medium for your plants. Collecting your own gravel is not worth the risk of introducing parasites andinfection, Gravel is usually cheap and can be bought in an assortment of colors to suit your taste. One pound covers an area of roughly 20 cubic inches, but if you are going to "landscape" your aquarium, it is better to have too much than too little. The actual area covered varies with the composition of the gravel and its mesh size.
Aquarium Driftwood
Much like adding aquatic plants to your aquarium, adding driftwood to your aquarium can certainly add to that eye-popping effect you are looking for. Driftwood is basically a piece of wood, that has been dried. Unlike aquatic plants, driftwood sinks naturally to the bottom of your tank, eliminating the need to be anchored in place, all you need to do is place it where you want it and will stay there until you or your fish move it to a new location. Each piece of driftwood has its own unique character and appeal, and can be used to build attractive underwater caves for your fish.
